Jungle safari in Chitwan

The Chitwan Chronicles

By Samai Haider

Published in ICE Today – Issue: June 2005

Always dreamt of going on a jungle safari? Complete with rhinos, elephants and wild game? Then look no further than Chitwan – Nepal’s wild side.

Photos: Samai Haider

Only a surreal country like Nepal can feature an eclectic choice of mountains, rivers and jungles. Famous for the breathtaking Himalayas, the country also has a fair share of game parks.  Sandwiched between gargantuan mountains, Chitwan lies towards the Indian border and offers similar bearings of an African safari park.

The Royal Chitwan National Park at a Glance

The Royal Chitwan National Park was established in 1973 and even though it is situated in mountainous Nepal, it is only 150m above the sea level. During March-June temperatures peak at 43°C. February – May is the prime time for viewing game. The monsoon season is riddled with high humidity and incessant rains, fast flowing rivers and lush, green vegetation. Chitwan is a nature lover’s paradise with over 50 different species of mammals, 400 different species of birds, and 65 different types of butterflies in its hardwood Sal forests, riverine vegetation, and ‘elephant grass’ savannah. More than 70 different species of grass grow here. Rhinos, Bengal Tigers, leopards, deer, monkeys, elephants, sloth bear, and antelope are a few common species that this sanctuary is renowned for.

Of Jeeps and Jungles

Jeep safaris are popular for exploring the forests of Chitwan. For around Tk. 900, they take you around for four hours. This is a great way to spot wildlife, and is usually preferred by those who are mild in nature. The open roofed jeeps dispatched to transport us on the safari look nothing more than old, derelict pieces of junk, glued together by green paint, which it was informed, was used for camouflage purposes. The long trek through the dusty roads towards the jungle, will give voyagers the perfect ‘wind-in-my-face’ experience. Regulations require all travellers into the sanctuary to maintain complete silence, but that is not extended to the high-pitched, diesel engines that keeps the jeeps running.

            On entering the sanctuary, one’s senses were accosted with the rugged beauty of the lush, green flora. Rows upon rows of trees spread out on either side of the trail path, only to be broken at intervals by flower-covered marshes. The deep quiet of the jungle is pierced every so often with the shill cry of exotic birds and the wild chatter of the monkeys.

Rhino Rendezvous      

Jungle walks are a fun way to explore the wilderness. You can be sure to spot monkeys, birds and deer but there are no guarantees that you will come face to face with an Asian rhino. It is best to hire guides, who come as cheap as Tk.150 per day. Not only do they have an in depth knowledge of the surroundings, they are also the best safety measures.

The guides will take you through waist-high brambles towards water hole to view rhinos. More often than not, one will come upon sights that remain to be challenged, such as a small rhino basking in the sun’s rays, under the strict eye of its mama, standing vigilant not thirty feet away from where my head stuck out from the bushes. Although the animals are large in girth, they are known to outrun the fastest of men and gore them without a second’s thought. So it is best to keep a discrete distance and be prepared to make a break for the sanctuary of the jeeps.

Elephant Safari

            Elephant safaris are the best way to explore the depths of the Chitwan jungle. For about Tk. 1000 the elephants take you around the jungle for about two hours. There are two trips a day, one in the morning at eight and another at four in the afternoon. These services can be availed by the private sector, but be wary of inflated prices and dodgy handlers.

Those who suffer from the gross misconception that these large, generally placid beasts are sluggish – you could not be more wrong! They may be a mammoth of an animal, but boy can they run! Apparently shouldering the weight of five people on its back is no big deal for an elephant. It can do so with complete ease even while tearing up a young tree from its roots for a midmorning snack. The elephant truly has a mind of its own – it will relieve itself whenever and wherever it deems necessary and take its own sweet time while at it. Indeed, while riding on an elephant one does have to give in to its whims, such as a sudden urge to scratch its large behind against an equally large tree. There really is nothing much that can be done about it, especially when one are hanging onto the harness for dear life.

            The group of elephants breaks apart to trudge deeper into the jungle taking different routes. The elephants think nothing of crashing headlong into thick clumps of trees, so there will be more than a few instances when your head is on the verge of being decapitated.  But the elephant safari will expose you to strange animal sounds and you can literally come face to face with a series of multi colored insects hanging off tree leaves. Although the elephants do not seem to be following even the faintest of any trails, they often engage in the sport of ‘herding’ a group of rhinos into a water hole, usually a very muddy one. And that is yet another breathtaking scene – a group of rhinos calmly indulging themselves in a hot, steamy, mud bath – least bothered about the gawking group of onlookers.

            The elephant safari is never complete without sampling their favorite game. The elephants plunge straight into the middle of a small river and then each elephant playfully sprays one another with water, a game that had will drench you to the bone. Once in the river, the elephants are trained to track crocodiles in the water, and they joyfully do so, bounding along the middle of the river, trying to catch a glimpse of the largest Gharial crocs around. If lady luck permits, you might come across a pleasant natured elephant trainer who will allow you to drive the elephants – an offer that nobody should pass up.

Chitwan Nights

Nightfall in Chitwan brings on the Tharus. They are an indigenous community residing around the Royal Chitwan National Park. Their performers’ sole aim revolves around giving tourists a taste of their rich culture. Amidst enthralling drumbeats and exuberant clapping, the men jump and prance around a bonfire – a frenzy that soon catches up with you.

Elephant Safari

            Elephant safaris are the best way to explore the depths of the Chitwan jungle. For about Tk. 1000 the elephants take you around the jungle for about two hours. There are two trips a day, one in the morning at eight and another at four in the afternoon. These services can be availed by the private sector, but be wary of inflated prices and dodgy handlers.

 Those who suffer from the gross misconception that these large, generally placid beasts are sluggish – you could not be more wrong! They may be a mammoth of an animal, but boy can they run! Apparently shouldering the weight of five people on its back is no big deal for an elephant. It can do so with complete ease even while tearing up a young tree from its roots for a midmorning snack. The elephant truly has a mind of its own – it will relieve itself whenever and wherever it deems necessary and take its own sweet time while at it. Indeed, while riding on an elephant one does have to give in to its whims, such as a sudden urge to scratch its large behind against an equally large tree. There really is nothing much that can be done about it, especially when you are hanging onto the harness for dear life.

            The group of elephants broke apart and trudged deeper into the jungle taking different routes. We crashed headlong into thick clumps of trees and there were more than a few instances when my head was on the verge of being decapitated.  We heard strange animal noises and came face to face with a series of multi colored insects hanging off tree leaves. And as the elephants did not seem to be following event the faintest of any trails I was sure we were lost. But actually, the elephant trainers were ‘herding’ a group of rhinos into a water hole and a very muddy one at that. And that was yet another breathtaking scene – a group of rhinos calmly indulging themselves in a hot, steamy, mud bath – least bothered about the gawking group of onlookers.

            While we were wondering how easily the rhinos could be herded like sheep, the elephants plunged straight into the middle of a small river. Our screams of outrage turned to delight as each elephant playfully sprayed one another with water, a game that had us drenched to the bone. Soon we were tracking crocodiles in the water, bounding along the middle of the river, trying to catch a glimpse of the largest Gharial crocs around.

            One would think that was enough excitement for a day, but on our journey back, we were allowed to drive the elephants ourselves – an offer yours truly just could not pass up. I took the little stick from the mahout, positioned myself on the beast’s neck, feet planted firmly behind each ear, tried to memorize elephant talk for left, right and stop and was off. It was a beautiful experience, and in the little while that I spent on the animal, guiding it through the wilderness, I could bet there was a connection between us. I now appreciate the playful nature of an elephant and it is truly a beautiful creature.

Canoeing

Canoeing along the Rapti river is for those with an adventurous streak. You will be exposed to the Gharial crocodiles a variety of fish and with luck on your side, even a Gangetic dolphin. You can canoe downriver for about an hour, and take a three hour guided walk back to absorb the breathtaking beauty. All this for less than Tk. 300.

Accomodation

These are some of the more popular accommodations in Chitwan:

Jungle Safari Lodge

A standard double room with breakfast at the lodge costs approximately Tk. 2,000 per night.

River Side Springs Resort, Kurintar

A standard double room at this trendy resort will cost a little more than Tk. 4,000 per night.

Royal Park Hotel

The lodgings include breakfast, and a standard room costs approximately Tk. 2,000 per night.

Tiger Camp

Breakfast and rooms at this resort costs about Tk. 2,500 per night.

The Rhino Residency

This fun resort comes with a price tag of around Tk. 3,000 per night, breakfast included.